Surfing: Better than Sex?

November 13th, 1992

November 13, 1992
Uluwatu, Bali, Indonesia

Dear Phil,

Its black friday and if you were here you would be looking at an extrememly happy chappy.

Let’s see if I can fill you in. I’m sitting high on a cliff watching an incredible orange sunset – a big orange orb like in all the photos. Below me is Uluwatu – the famed break is fucking GOING OFF!!!! Its fully PUMPING! AWESOME spitting hideous barrels, and the most incredible thing is – THERE’S NO-ONE OUT!!

I’ve just come in from one of those all time surfs. I’m staying here at Uluwatu in one of the warungs here. This morning it looked pretty lousy so I went off and met a friend and we cruised around on the bikes finding not much worth surfing. I got back here at 3:00pm and found it was going off! It was flat and f**ked everywhere else. It came good just after I left of course. To us its about 6ft, to the legends here 4ft. But its a hideous barrel all the way, 2ft of water over the coral behind you. Its so easy to get into the barrel its ridiculous. Getting out is harder but can be done. I got some of the best hackhand waves ever. I was too gutless to go for the full backhand barrel but sitting in the doorway was enough. Had a go at it and just got nailed badly – barrel landed on my head as always. The whole time there was only one other guy surfing – two others just floating around and one guy taking photos. (The bastard was gone before I came in so I could get some copies – reckons he got some real good ones of me) – Oh and one of the guys was an american who wanted to know “Where is the mellower part of wave?” What mellow part! I was scared shitless myself. Its a top to bottom hell ride – not nearly as bad as Lacerations on Lembongan, but pretty gnarly. Eventually he decided he wanted to know how to get in (not an easy task if you don’t catch anything)!

Anyway the swells building still – one more day then Hawaii.

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