Thursday, August 15, 2002
Where are the trolls? Day 4? and still blogging. How long can this last?
Last night I wound up in a place named Reefton. Now we’re talking! Wow, had to drive through Leif? pass. Welcome to the forest. I did actually see the sun for a moment this morning, but it was only momentory. The sheepy green plains have given way to the kinda forest which you can’t see into. From the road, looking into the trees, you can see about 6 feet before it just becomes a dark mass of trees and things. It is perrenially damp, not raining, but just that fine mist keeping everything moist, not wet exactly, but not dry by a long stretch.
The roads all wind alongside what is now a vast wide fast moving, cold looking river. It’s all country town now. Folks might actually greet me first when walking down the empty street, what a pleasant change. I’m definately in low-season, last night I had the backpackers to myself. So wandered over to the pub for a beer and a feed. The local crowd (of 10 perhaps) all polite and unintrusive. I declined the rope to join the evening pool comp, and smirked at their customs. Everyone buys a jug for themself, and just tops up their glass as they go. Leave your money on the bar, and let the bartender sort it out as he goes. Casual.
Reefton was the first town in NZ to get electric light, and sadly I don’t have a copy of the newspaper account of the day it was switched on, but to recount, they marvelled at the depth and strength of the shadows produced. So much so that it was very ‘surreal’ and given on obstacle in front of them, people had great difficultly working out whether to step over the obstacle or the shadow. We take it for granted, but next time you’re outside with a spotlight…
The hostel stove ran on coal, which was an experience. Coal burns very hot. No wonder its so popular. The guy running the hostel was a retiring coal / gold miner. Very friendly. In the evening I found a bit of walk to venture on. Deep into some rainforest, was good. I’m now wishing I had enough time to do a solid “tramp” (hike). The roads all follow the valleys. I’m thinking a 5 day trek, and seems they’re pretty popular. Also keep picturing what it would be like to ride (pushbike – no, roads, not on the trails silly). Excellent methinks, but can’t decide whether I’d want to do it carrying the gear, or have a support car, pros and cons.
Home Sweet Home
I’ll also mention the roads are all excellent, watch out for the many one lane bridges across raging waters. I’m still getting used to the idea that not everything is an eight hour drive or more away. The routine is already, to drive a few hours a day between 11-3, take it slow, there’s plenty to see, and no rush anyway – its just not that far. The walking tracks I’ve seen have also been excellent. Although I can see some now becoming 6 inches of mud.
So today I’m cruising for the glaciers. Not sure what I’ll find there… that’s the fun of it right?
Tech notes for today. Still no opportunity to dump my images, and I’m running out of ram fast. Ugg, people really do get subjected to 640×480 (eg. this library terminal).
posted by John Mee at 12:50 PM
